Fabric construction



May 7, 1940. E. c. GEIER ET AL FABRIC CONSTRUCTION Filed Sept. 22. 1938Fig. 5.

IN VENTOR. ERNEST c.6515? JOHN 2;

ATTORNEYS .Yf/ x A Egg.

Patented May 7, 1940 UNITED STATES FABRIC CONSTRUCTION Ernest C. Geier,White Plains, N. Y., and John Haesler, Teaneck, N. J., assignors toDuplan Silk Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of DelawareApplication September 22, 1938, Serial No. 231,156

4 Claims.

The present invention relates to a fabric construction and particularlyrelates to a fabric and yarn construction which may be composed in wholeor part of rayon and cellulose acetate yarns.

Although in certain instances, natural silk, cotton, linen, wool andother yarns may be employed in the yarns or fabrics of the presentinvention, the present invention will be particularly described inconnection with its application to fabrics composed of multi-filamentrayon, cellulose acetate or other synthetic yarns.

Many fabrics woven in whole or part of synthetic yarns have a rathercrisp or harsh filling and for many purposes it is desired to have fab-'rics having a relatively soft texture and also to a slight degree havinga woolly or tweedy feel or hand.

It is therefore, among the objects of the present invention to provideimproved fabrics woven therefrom which will have a relatively woolly orsoft feel and texture without substantial added expense.

Another object is to provide an improved fabric woven therefrom composedwholly or in part of synthetic yarns.

Other objects will be obvious or will appear during the course of thefollowing specification.

In accomplishing the above objects, it has been found most satisfactoryto combine together a creping yarn having a relatively high twist, and arelatively low twist multi filament synthetic yarn, the fibers of whichin part have been cut at spaced intervals so as to give rise to a fuzz.

The creping yarn may be composed of high twist natural silk having fromto '75 turns twist, but more preferably it may be composed of a to 300deniers, 15 to 100 filament synthetic rayon yarn which yarn may be ofthe viscose type, the cupra-ammonium type or it may be derived fromnitro-cellulose.

The low twist yarn may be readily composed of either a multi filamentrayon yarn or a multi filament acetate yarn having from 20 to 200filaments, a minor portion of which filaments being cut at frequentintervals.

In one preferred construction, the filaments are cut so that there willbe 1 to 5 projecting portions or filaments per inch having an averageprojection of to 1 inch.

To give several examples to which the present invention is by no meansrestricted, a fabric may be woven having both a warp and fillingcomposed of a yarn including bright viscose and dull acetate twistedtogether at 15 turns right.

The bright viscose yarn may be 100 denier, 60 filament, 55 turns rightwhile the dull acetate maybe of 150 denier, 40 filament, 2 to 10 turnsright twist.

If desired, this combined yarn may be used solely for the warp or solelyfor the filler and also may be combined with corresponding left twistyarns in either the warp or the filling or it may be altogether replacedby corresponding left twist yarn.

When the woven fabric is boiled off and finished, the crepin yarnsappear to pull up the acetate or low twist rayon yarns to form a fabrichaving a fuzzy, wooly hand, the bulk-of which appears to consist of therelatively low twist acetate yarns which apparently are in floating orsemi floating condition and spirally encircled by the creping yarns.

The filaments of the low twist yarns appear to separate, while thosein'the high twist appear to be closely compacted in the final fabric.

As another example, it is possible to utilize the combination of a 4thread 20/22 crepe silk having 65 turns right twist combined with anabraded 100 denier filament rayon having 2 to 10 turns right twist. I

The last mentioned yarn may be used for either the warp or the fillingor for both and it may be combined, if desired, with other types ofyarns such as those disclosed in the first example or even spun yarns ofstaple rayon, staple acetate, spun silk, cotton, filament, silk, wool,linen, and so forth.

As a third example, a '75 denier 30 filament viscose crepe having turnsright twist may be combined with a denier, 60 filament 5 turn left twistrayon yarn which has been abraded or cut so as to have a fuzz thereon.

As a fourth example, a '75 denier, filament viscose crepe yarn of 55turns right may be plied with a 100 denier, 40 filament, 5 to 10 turnsright by a united twisting of 10 to 25 turns right.

In all cases, the yarn and fabric woven therefrom has a particularlynovel hand and softness of texture which is highly desirable whichdiffers quite substantially from the usual type of rayon or celluloseacetate yarns or fabrics woven therefrom.

The yarns, above described, may be alsocombined with thick and thinyarns which are produced by irregularly increasing the diameter of thefilament in the forming or spinning operation and these thick and thinyarns may be used either as creping yarns or as the abraded yarns.

Although the invention was described in connection with two ply yarns,it is obvious that it might be applied to three, four or more ply yarnsin which the number of abraded or cut strands may vary from one to threeor more while the number of creping strands or plies may vary from oneto three or more.

As examples of such yarns, a 150 denier, 40

- filament, 8 turn right abraded acetate yarn may be combined with 150denier, 60 filament, 3 turns right abraded viscose yarn, these two yarnsbeing combined by 2 turns right. This combined yarn may then be furthercombined with 100 denier, 60 filament, 55 turn right viscose crepe yarnby a 10 turn right united twisting.

As a further example, a '75 denier, 45 filament, 57 turn left viscoserayon, yarn may be combined with 150 denier, 46 filament, 1% turn leftabraded acetate yarn by 12 turns left united twisting, and the combinedyarn may then be further combined with a 75 denier, 45 filament, 60 turnright viscose yarn by turns right twisting.

On the accompanying drawing is shown diagrammatically, a yarnconstruction according to the present application, Figure 1 illustratingan elevation of a yarn section upon enlarged scale in unabradedcondition; Figure 2 illustrating a similar section in abraded conditionand Figure 3 illustrating the yarn of Figure 2 doubled or twisted with acreping yarn, which creping yarn is unabraded.

The yarn, as shown in Figure 1, normally has The novel appearance isgiven to the yarn by the short outstanding fibers I2, which areuniformly spaced and which in the united yarn of Figure 3 do not readilybecome loose and form a fly.

It is apparent that the specific illustrations shown above have beengiven by way of illustration and not by way of limitation and that thestructures above described are subject to wide variation andmodification without departing from the scope or intent of theinvention, all of which variations and modifications are to be includedwithin the scope of the present invention.

What is claimed is:

1. For use in making a woven fabric having a relatively soft texture anda wooly or tweedy hand or feel, a yarn construction comprising a lowtwist combination of a 100 denier, 60 filament, 55 right twist brightviscose rayon and an abraded 150 denier, 40 filament between 2 and righttwist cellulose acetate.

2. For use in making a woven fabric having a relatively soft texture anda wooly or tweedy hand or feel, a yarn construction comprising a lowtwist combination of a 4 thread 20/22, 65 right twist crepe silk and a100 denier, 60 filament, between 2%, and 10 right twist abraded rayon.

3. For use in making a woven fabric having a relatively soft texture anda wooly or tweedy hand or feel, a yarn construction comprising a lowtwist combination of a '75 denier, filament. 65 right twist crepeviscose rayon and a 100 denier, 60 filament between 2 and 10 twist leftabraded rayon.

4. For use in making a woven fabric having a relatively soft texture andalso a wooly or tweedy hand or feel, a yarn construction composed of acreping yarn having from 45 to 75 turns twist and a multi filament lowtwist rayon yarn having from 20 to 200 filaments, at least a minorportion of which filaments are cut at frequent intervals with the resultthere will be at least 1 to 5 projecting filament ,ends per inch havingat least an average projection of A; to 1 inch.

ERNEST C. GEIER. JOHN HAESLER.

